Time Traveling in Havana, Cuba

A journal entry from the night I arrived in Cuba one year ago

Almost exactly one year ago I landed in Havana, Cuba by myself. I’d arrived two days before my family got there, so I could indulge in solo-travel. Don’t get me wrong, I love traveling with my family, but I also love the growth that solo travel brings. So I took it upon myself to have a bit of both in Cuba. This was unlike any other trip I’ve taken. Last year I wrote this piece about the Book of Dreams in Cuba, with the intention of writing a series, but I never got around to it. So better late than never, I’m sharing a journal entry of the day I arrived in Havana, Cuba for the first time.

Time Travel is Possible

November 22, 2023:

“It feels like I entered a time capsule.

Nothing digital upon landing in Havana, Cuba. Immigration was two wooden school desks that looked like they were from the 1930’s with two women scribbling on clipboards and shuffling papers. I was the first one off the plane and into the customs checkpoint. No computers, no eye scan, no fingerprints taken. I handed them my handwritten Cuban visa I’d received in the mail, they flipped through my passport, and waved for me to pass. My passport didn’t even get stamped.

I was the first one out. A long hallway and people crowded at the doors outside. Reminded me of my grandparents waiting for us in Colombia. I felt awkward walking toward them. But as soon as I got outside, I saw a small whiteboard with my name on it. “MARIA”.

1950’s Taxi Ride

“Hola Roberto, mucho gusto.” I said. Roberto was a taxi driver that my hostel had connected me with. A handshake with Roberto later, and he helped me with my backpack then we walked over to the parking lot. Night had already fallen and it was pitch black with hardly any lights.

Then I saw them. The cars!! It felt like a movie set. A 1955 red Chevrolet. Engine roared. His gear box made loud clicking noises. The color was pristine nail polish red with impeccable interior. It reminded me of the inside of my grandpa's old red Ford pickup. Roberto’s Chevrolet was only one of the dozens of old American cars lined up waiting to pick up passengers.

As the engine roared to life we start driving the streets. Hitchhikers lined the roads. People jumped the road barriers. As we approach Havana Vieja, buildings started appearing. Plastered walls deteriorating. Paint chipped. Road signs and restaurant neon signs clearly left over from the 1950’s. It felt like a decaying museum.

The streets were a labyrinth as we approached the hostel. Narrow as heck. Clothes hanging out of windows. Sheets drying. People sitting in the street talking. Cats walking. I wondered what this place would have been like in its golden days. How beautiful the buildings would have been. Now they are crumbling.

Roberto told me people are leaving by the hundreds. That there’s not really life here anymore. I listened to him telling me stories. That’s what I am here to do after all— talk to locals. Hear their stories.

Wise Words from a Stranger

Juan Carlos, the guy next to me on the plane had warned me about the frequent blackouts. El “apagon”. Especially in the countryside, power goes out for hours because fuel runs out.

But he also told me about life. “Toca vivir día por día”. We’ve got to live day by day. He said that if we feel stuck with our day to day, then we need to go and take action.

He was probably in his 60’s and had migrated to Miami from Cuba in the 1990’s. He was just going back to visit his family. We struck conversation over Tarot cards because I saw he was reading his cards on his phone. Then he talked to me about the importance of going out into the world in pursuit of what gives you joy.

These are 4 phrases he told me:

1. “Si no estás contenta, has algo. Vete, vuela, persigue lo que te da felicidad.”

   (“If you’re not happy, do something. Go, fly, chase after what gives you happiness.”)

2. “El alma vino a aprender.”

   (“The soul came here to learn.”)

3. “Tranquilidad es lo mas importante de todo.”

   (“Tranquility is the most important thing.”)

4. “Toca vivir solo el día por día. Si te sientes atascada con el dia a dia, tines que tomar accion.”

   (“We can only live day by day. If you feel stuck with day to day. then you need to go and take action.”)

We only met by chance because our flight was delayed and they made us all switch planes in Fort Lauderdale. Had this not happened, we wouldn’t have met. But I know there is no such thing as coincidences.

Don’t Judge a Hostel By It’s Cover

I just got here but I can already tell this: Lack of resources. Isolated. Former colony. Blackouts. No internet. No medicine. No consumer goods. No fuel. The result of years of other countries poking their hands into this place, plus corrupt government. It feels like people here are trapped.

Sometimes trips aren’t about the place, but about the people. About their strength, hope, resilience. I have a feeling this is one of those.

Roberto and I talked the entire way until he dropped me off at the hostel. Way past midnight and when I got out of the car the street looked dark and creepy. The buildings look like they are going to fall apart.

Thankfully Roberto came inside with me where we met Carlos and Anais, the hostel owners. Inside, the hostel is full of plants, colors, and good energy. It looks nothing like the shell of the building outside. I said goodbye to Roberto and came up to the rooftop.

A couple of other solo travelers were gathered in a corner, the only place where internet worked. Internet here is regulated, apparently. There is no freedom of speech or internet surfing.

I made a new friend, Marie, from Paris. We exchanged numbers and agreed to meet again if I ever came to Paris. (Plot twist— we DID meet again when I was living in Paris this summer. We had a great conversation recapping our Cuba experiences while having a picnic in front of the Notre Dame).

I’m in my hostel dorm room now and there are wooden lockers that look like they are from the 1930’s. The bunk beds are made of lanky metal and they seem old as the lockers. I don’t even want to know how old this mattress is. Thankfully I brought a roll of toilet paper with me from the US because there is none here at all.

On the bright side there is an AC unit, which I was not expecting! It’s not a luxury hostel. It’s old and creaky, but it’s homey, clean, and people are nice. What else can you ask for?

Funny how we are quick to judge both books and places by their covers. Havana seems rough on the outside, but on the inside I think it is full of interesting conversations, kindness, and good people.

Okay it’s nearly 2 a.m. I’m hungry because the last meal I ate was a bag of chips in Florida at noon. But I am nervous to go out and look for food at this time of night. I don’t know how safe Havana is at night and I’m by myself. I’ll wait until daylight to get a lay of the land.

Taking It Day By Day

Tomorrow I plan on going on a run. Runs are always the best way to explore new places. It’s not really a trip unless it involves running shoes, I guess. I have absolutely no clue what it will be like. I read on Reddit that it’s safe to run and I mapped out a route that gets me to El Malecón on the waterfront. Reddit also said Havana is infamous for way too many men cat-calling women. Even though Reddit people said they are harmless, I’m sure it will be so annoying.

I also need to figure out money. I have US dollars but I need to get Cuban pesos and have no idea how. There are no banks here, no credit cards. Guess that’s a problem for tomorrow. There are no ATM’s at all, so I only have the cash I brought with me. I hope it’s enough.

I wonder what the future looks like in Cuba. I haven't actually explored anything, but I feel a bit sad because I know people have it very rough, yet I can tell they are resilient with big souls. Something tells me this is a city of contrasts.

As Juan Carlos said, “take it one day at a time.” Good night.

---

Read my other post about Cuba, The Book of Dreams below: